Lens Drilling Machines
Lens drilling is the finishing operation at the heart of rimless, drill-mount eyewear. Instead of seating a lens in a full frame or a nylon groove, the technician bores small, precisely placed holes through the finished lens so the bridge and temples mount directly to the glass. The margin for error is tight: hole diameter, distance from the edge, and clean entry and exit all determine whether the mount sits flush, stays tight, and resists cracking over years of wear. A dedicated lens drilling machine gives your finishing department that repeatable precision, whether you turn out a handful of rimless jobs a week or run drill-mount work all day.
As a US-based equipment provider, US Ophthalmic backs every lens drilling machine we carry with an in-house technical and repair department, a stocked supply of spare parts and drill bits, and US warranty and service. Our line spans straightforward automatic drills for everyday rimless work, dual-sided units that bore both lens faces at once for chip-free holes, and notch-cutting machines for semi-rimless mounts. That lets you match a machine to your job mix and volume, then keep it running long after the sale, supported by people who service the equipment themselves rather than pointing you overseas.
How to choose a lens drilling machine
- Single-sided vs. dual-sided drilling: The biggest quality difference between machines is how the bit enters the lens. Dual-sided drills bore from both faces at once, which prevents the flaking and chipping that occurs when a bit punches out the back surface. If you run polycarbonate or higher-value jobs, two-sided drilling protects the exit hole and cuts down on remakes; single-sided drilling is adequate for simpler, lower-volume work.
- The lens materials you process: Match the machine to your material mix. Glass, CR-39 plastic, and polycarbonate each drill differently. Trivex and polycarbonate are the most forgiving for drill mounts, while high-index lenses are brittle at the hole edge and more prone to cracking over time. Confirm the drill is rated for every material you finish so you are not limited to a subset of your jobs.
- Hole size and edge-distance control: A rimless mount only holds if the hole diameter matches the frame hardware and sits a consistent distance from the lens edge. Look for adjustable, repeatable hole-diameter and edge-distance settings so every lens in a batch comes out identical and the mount seats flush without stressing the material.
- Reaming, chamfering and notch-cutting: Drilling is only part of finishing. A built-in reamer lets you enlarge or clean a hole after drilling, and chamfering the edge relieves the stress that leads to cracks. For semi-rimless or slotted mounts, a notch-cutting machine handles cuts a round drill cannot. Decide which of these secondary operations your lab needs before settling on one machine.
- Volume, throughput and operator skill: A small dispensary turning a few rimless jobs a week is well served by a simple automatic drill that any technician can run. Higher-volume finishing departments benefit from faster cycle times and controls that keep results consistent from one operator to the next. Be realistic about your weekly job count so you neither overspend nor create a bottleneck.
- Service, spare parts and warranty: Drill bits wear and consumables run out, so a lens drilling machine is only as reliable as the support behind it. Choose a provider that stocks replacement bits and parts, offers US-based service and repair, and stands behind the unit with a warranty, so a worn bit or a routine adjustment never idles your finishing line.
Featured lens drilling machines
The models below cover the full range of rimless finishing, from everyday automatic drilling to dual-sided precision and notch-cutting. Each is supported by our in-house service department and spare-parts supply.
| Model | Type | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| DM-1000 | Automatic dual-sided lens drill with reamer | Labs that want the most versatile rimless drilling: simultaneous two-sided boring for chip-free holes, a built-in reamer, and a single-sided twist-bit option |
| DM-800 | Automatic lens drill (two-sided / one-sided) | Everyday rimless drilling and mixed-experience technicians who want simple, precise, easy-to-operate controls |
| AN-1000 | Notch-cutting machine (dual bit sizes) | Fast, clean notch-cutting for semi-rimless and drill-mount finishing work alongside a primary drill |
Frequently asked questions
What lens materials can be drilled for rimless, drill-mount frames? Trivex and polycarbonate are the best candidates because they resist cracking and chipping around the mounting hole. Glass and standard CR-39 can be drilled as well. High-index lenses are the most brittle at the hole edge and are prone to cracking over time, so many labs steer those jobs toward semi-rimless designs instead. Always confirm your drill is rated for the materials you run.
Why does dual-sided drilling matter? When a bit punches straight through one side of a lens, it can flake or chip as it exits the back surface. Dual-sided machines bore from both faces, roughly halfway from each side, so the hole is clean on both surfaces. This matters most for polycarbonate and higher-value lenses, where a chipped exit hole means a remake.
What is the difference between lens drilling and notch-cutting? Drilling bores round holes through the lens for drill-mount (rimless) hardware. Notch-cutting creates slots or notches used for semi-rimless and certain mounting styles where a cut, rather than a round hole, secures the lens. Many finishing departments keep both a drill and a notch-cutting machine to cover the full range of rimless and semi-rimless work.
Should I buy a new or refurbished lens drilling machine? Both can be sound choices. A refurbished unit lowers upfront cost, but the deciding factor should be the support behind it: whether replacement drill bits and spare parts are readily available, and whether the machine is backed by US-based service and warranty. A well-supported drill will outlast a cheaper one you cannot get parts or bits for.
What maintenance and consumables does a lens drill need? The main consumable is the drill bit, which dulls with use. A dull bit is a leading cause of chipped holes, so keep spares on hand and replace bits before they wear out. Beyond that, keep the lens support and moving parts clean and aligned. Sourcing bits and parts from a provider with an in-house spare-parts department keeps a worn bit from stopping production.
